Where in the (Third) World is the Urban Forest?

Kathmandu is a city without an urban forest. The few trees lining the streets or stuck randomly into landscapes are poorly maintained and shrubby at best. Crape myrtles are a frequent choice, although I’m unsure why considering they have practically no canopy. In a sadder moment I grabbed a shot of this crape myrtle. It’s unclear whether the fence is holding up this tree or the tree is holding up the fence, either way I think it’s a symbiotic relationship.

My father has crape myrtles in front of his house that I’ve always adored. Their pink blossoms flutter around like snow when they’re in bloom and their papery trunks look so elegant and pristine. On my father’s birthday I thought it best to put up a photo of a crape myrtle, but wish I had a more exquisite tree to show off.

When traveling south of Kathmandu to the overflow and sprawl of ’suburban’ Patan, there again are practically no trees. As a meeting point, we were given directions to “Meet under the big tree.” There was no question about which ‘big tree,’ as really there was only one shady spot on the entire hour long walk. People were reclined under it, enjoying the arching canopy, and a small produce market gathered along its perimeter.

This ficus (not sure of the species) is called the Buddha Tree, as it is the type of tree that Buddha attained enlightenment under in India. Since Buddha was born in Nepal, there’s a celebration of both Buddhism and Hinduism, although most of the population is Hindu. Many Hindus view Buddha as a deity, and if I understand correctly, most Buddhists are open minded enough to not mind. These ficus are all over the city, growing in cracks and crevices in the pavement, or imprisoned by laughable tree boxes.

It’s a wonder that the Buddha tree survives at all. I guess like Buddha, it can live through fasting, pain, suffering, and abuse. That said, even Buddha died.

It’s apparent that when people don’t have basic necessities like running water, nutritious food, education and health care, issues such as urban forestry and environmentalism get pushed far to the sidelines. If only there were a Casey Trees in Kathmandu, as storm-water runoff, limited canopy, and poor air quality vex the community. Luxuries include having meat with your meal, or a place to wash your hands before dining, or having a bite of chocolate, so having a green outdoor space is a fantasy to most Nepalis.

Today, walking with Maya (”Love” in Nepali) through the streets of Buddhanagar, our neighborhood, I asked if she liked living in Kathmandu. She told me, “No, I’d rather live in a village, in a small home, with lots of flowers and a big tree.” Me too.